Recommendations when uprating 2CV engines

At first the Facts about Engine Uprating, its a must to read it! And you understand better what we do.
Exhaust Backpressure (PDF-File)

What is to observe for maximum power output of uprated 2CV engine with big bore kits and improved camshafts.

Carburetor : Often overseen from the customer due to lack of knowledge, or lack of money....
At any time when an engine is improved with a Big Bore Kit and/or with an improved camshaft, the carburetor must be rejetted. This allow to lowest possible fuel consumption and max power output.

Air filter : The serial unit is just at his flow delivery limit with the Big Bore Kit, with the 6,8mm/288° camshaft you need definitively a bigger one! And by the way the serial air filter housing is out of resonance versus the engine.

Choice an air filter unit coming out a car that have 70 to 100 HP of power output. They have the right flow delivery for your engine air demand.

Look for a unit that you can easily place in your engine bay.

Look for a unit made out of plastic material; they are quieter than units with a metal case.

The torque and power gain is very appreciable over the entire RPM range.

Tip: A forced air induction (such as used by Dyane6, Acadiane and Ami8) from fan housing to air filter is a nice feature that provide a torque and power gain in low, middle and upper RPM range and improve engine throttle response.

Exhaust: Look at the chapter about exhaust system in our homepages.

We have a DIY expansions chamber kit for twin exhaust system. It's not expensive but need some welding from your side.

Ignition: Follow my recommendations about ignition timing, coil, silicone ignition wires and the right spark plugs heat range!

Warning :

In the past many 2CV owners believe on the advantage of the 123.Ignition in conjunction with Stage One or Stage 2 engines: Many of these 123.ignition owner have seized/jammed and destroyed their engines!!!!!!.... The advance curve of the 123.ignition was away from engine need. Later the 123.ignition manufacturer have modify the ignition advance curve with the result that now the standard and improved engines are slower versus conventional points ignited or breakerless ignition engines!!! Sole remaining advantage was good starting ability...

A "normal" breakerless ignition such as Piranha or Lumenition are a much better choice and better suited.

Oil temperature : Many people overlook or don't pay attention to this. It's a given fact that best working engine and lowest wear is achieved when oil temperature is between 80 to 110°C.

So a temperature sensor in oil pan and a gauge inside is an excellent accessory to survey your engine, it cost not very much and can save your engine from an Exitus Letalis.

A relative simple method to drop oil temperature level is to have more oil in the engine. The adapter nipple allows using oil filters with twice or 4 times the oil capacity of standard unit is a good way. In summer the big oil filters having 1 litre capacity increase engine oil amount by ¾ of litre. This drop the oil temperature by 10° to 20°C. There are other systems costing much more and are really not better!

The radical cure and absolute control for over temperature and over heating is the thermostatically controlled oil cooling with main stream oil cooler or auxiliary coolers.

Gauges : So less as possible, so much as necessary, it's a good advice!

You must watch at traffic and not survey gauges....

What is necessary? As indicated at top oil temperature, RPM indicator and not absolute necessary oil pressure.

That's all Folk!


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