Recommendations when uprating 2CV engines
At first the Facts about Engine Uprating,
its a must to read it! And you understand better what we do.
Exhaust Backpressure (PDF-File)
What is to observe for maximum power
output of uprated 2CV engine with big bore kits and improved
Carburetor : Often overseen from the customer due to lack of knowledge, or lack of money....
At any time when an engine is improved with a Big Bore Kit and/or with an improved
camshaft, the carburetor must be rejetted. This allow to lowest possible fuel
consumption and max power output.
Air filter : The serial unit is just at his flow delivery limit
with the Big Bore Kit, with the 6,8mm/288° camshaft you need definitively
a bigger one! And by the way the serial air filter housing is out of
resonance versus the engine.
Choice an air filter unit coming out a
car that have 70 to 100 HP of power output. They have the right flow delivery
for your engine air demand.
Look for a unit that you can easily
place in your engine bay.
Look for a unit made out of plastic
material; they are quieter than units with a metal case.
The torque and power gain is very
appreciable over the entire RPM range.
Tip: A forced air induction (such as used by Dyane6, Acadiane and
Ami8) from fan housing to air filter is a nice feature that provide a torque
and power gain in low, middle and upper RPM range and improve engine throttle
Exhaust: Look at the chapter about exhaust system in our homepages.
We have a DIY expansions chamber kit
for twin exhaust system. It's not expensive but need some welding from your
Ignition: Follow my recommendations about
ignition timing, coil, silicone ignition wires and the right spark plugs heat
In the past many 2CV owners believe on
the advantage of the 123.Ignition in conjunction with Stage One or Stage 2
engines: Many of these 123.ignition owner have seized/jammed and destroyed
their engines!!!!!!.... The advance curve of the 123.ignition was away from
engine need. Later the 123.ignition manufacturer have modify the ignition
advance curve with the result that now the standard and improved engines are
slower versus conventional points ignited or breakerless ignition engines!!!
Sole remaining advantage was good starting ability...
A "normal" breakerless ignition such as
Piranha or Lumenition are a much better choice and better
Oil temperature : Many people overlook or don't pay attention to
this. It's a given fact that best working engine and lowest wear is achieved
when oil temperature is between 80 to 110°C.
So a temperature sensor in oil pan and
a gauge inside is an excellent accessory to survey your engine, it cost not
very much and can save your engine from an Exitus Letalis.
A relative simple method to drop oil
temperature level is to have more oil in the engine. The adapter nipple
allows using oil filters with twice or 4 times the oil capacity of standard
unit is a good way. In summer the big oil filters having 1 litre capacity
increase engine oil amount by ¾ of litre. This drop the oil
temperature by 10° to 20°C. There are other systems costing much
more and are really not better!
The radical cure and absolute control
for over temperature and over heating is the thermostatically controlled oil
cooling with main stream oil cooler or auxiliary coolers.
Gauges : So less as possible, so much as necessary, it's a good
You must watch at traffic and not survey gauges....
What is necessary? As indicated at top
oil temperature, RPM indicator and not absolute necessary oil
That's all Folk!
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